Now that we are in the cold stretch of winter it is the perfect time to drink some red wines and start roasting some red meat. There is a certain romanticism when we watch movies and televisions and watch a bigshot order a very old bottle from a specific vintage (even in Ratatouille food critic Anton Ego asks for a 1947 Château Cheval Blanc). I was treated this night to a special tasting that involved drinking out of an Imperial (a 6L bottle) and drink wine that is older than myself.
The event was hosted by the proprietor of Château de Lamarque Mr Pierre-Gilles Gromand D’Evry. It was interesting to hear him talk about advances in winemaking over the past few decades. Looking back into old vintages isn’t just a reflection of the quality of the fruit, but also the talent of the winemaker and what they were able to accomplish with what they had at their disposal. I had an opportunity to taste 2010, 2009, 2005, 1995, 1985, and 1975. I will have specific tasting notes for each vintage … but one thing that is remarkable about this tasting is that each vintage was very different. Especially when you got into the older vintages.
Sadly these wines are not available from the LCBO but the 2009 Vintage is available through the SAQ for $35.50.
2010 – (Served in Decanter) – The wine had been decanted for about 30 minutes prior to serving. The tannin had softened slightly but still could have used some more time before serving (maybe 2-3 hours IMO). Flavours were Raspberry, Blackberry, and Blueberry with subtle leather poking through the finish.
2009 – Immediately you can taste that this wine is in its infancy. The tannin is very firm and this wine should age nicely. Lots of Blackberry, Raspberry and Blueberry with leather and smoke poking through. The tannin is very firm in this vintage and this wine needs at least another five years (or a few hours in a decanter). available through SAQ
2005 – The tannin is approachable and this wine is easy drinking. It is starting to show signs of adolescence with hints of mossy forest floor and mushroom poking through the finish of this wine. Fruit is Black Currant, Blackberry and Blueberry. This wine is drinking fantastic right now, but also has a long life left if you felt like cellaring it for another 10 years or so.
1995 – (Served from 6L Bottle) – I have started building a collection of Magnums in my own home. There is something impressive about putting a big bottle on the table when you are serving your guests. A 6L bottle is definitely impressive… Unfortunately the wine wasn’t as impressive as the bottle. The wine was dominated by barnyard flavours with whispers of fruit left in the bottle. While the fruit was gone out of the bottle this wine did make a perfect match to my Milk Chocolate Mousse and Hazelnut Ice Cream dessert.
1985 – This wine was easily the highlight of the evening … for those of us who were at the event we drank every last drop of what was open in the restaurant. The nose was a little mushroomy and musty but there is still some black currant and blackberry hiding underneath all that age. The tannin has softened completely making this wine dangerously easy to drink … every time I raised my glass I had to remind myself that this was from 1985 and it was meant to be savoured not gulped. The remarkable thing is that I had the opportunity to enjoy this wine over 3 hours and it kept opening up and peeling back layers of must to reveal more and more fruit. To steal one from Ferris Bueller “If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.”
1975 – Mushroomy and loaded with dry fruit. This wine was on the tail end of its life… but it is interesting to take a look back in time. The dark and red fruit in this wine was starting to be replaced with some citrus flavours. The wine was starting to taste a little like sherry. Not nearly as exciting as the 85 but interesting nonetheless.
