It’s been far too long since I’ve given some love to the County. My much overdue visit took me to a few places – but one issue that seems to be an epidemic in the county is a shortage of wine. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not a bad thing – It’s exciting to see that business is booming in the County. That being said as the tourists flock to my once “secret” wine region many of the annoyances from Niagara are also making their way. I would like to think that as a proud Torontonian I have patience for cyclists, and I believe we need to share the roads to make the city function properly. But the number of ignorant cyclists driving down the back roads four bikes abreast was astounding. That being said – the atmosphere and service from the wineries is unchanged.
I made my regular stop at Hinterland. The retail store has moved from the big barn to the former County Road brewery. Things are very comfortable in the new space. I arrived right at 11am and there were already a few people eager to taste the wines. While there is still some time to wait before the 2015 Les Etoiles is ready for sale – for now the stellar lineup of Charmat wines is still well worth the visit.
2018 Whitecap – $23.25 – **** – Vidal, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. This continues to be affable, and easy going. While there is a touch of sweetness it’s just enough to bring some orchard fruit to a wine that offers grapefruit cocktail and white flower notes. Priced to be tossed into a mimosa, but “serious” enough to get dressed up for a special family dinner.
2018 Borealis – $24.00 – **** – I swear every incarnation of this wine picks up a little more of the Gamay spirit. The nose has a slightly rustic characteristic with sour cherry, dark cherry, and wild strawberry. Just a hint of sweetness on the mid palate amplifies watermelon, raspberry, and cherry notes. Solid acidity keeps this wine perfectly balanced.
2018 Ancestral – $25.30 – **** – If you never get the chance to visit Beaujolais at least make sure you taste this wine. I find it remarkable that in a province where only Hinterland is making a wine in this style how good it stands next to it’s French cousins made in the same style. While this wine is still affectionately referred to as the baby maker by long time fans of the winery even a hardened wine snob should have a hard time resisting this off dry sparkler.
2017 Red Herring Chardonnay – $35.00 – ****½ – This wine has been available for a little while, and if there’s anything I should have learned from Vicki and Jonas by now – their wines need a bit of time. Last time I tasted this wine was shortly after release, and to be honest the oak was a bit obtuse – fast forward several months and this wine has snapped into focus like a beautiful Polaroid photograph. Here’s the thing, I believe there is going to be a bit more time before this photo completely comes into focus. If you buy a bottle you could enjoy this now, but I would wait another 12-48 months before this beauty really enters its prime.
2017 Red Herring Syrah – $39.00 – **** – This is the true definition of cool climate Syrah. The aromas of smoked meat, and cracked black pepper are perfectly layered over black currant and plum. This is going to take some serious time in a decanter, or at least a few years in a cellar to knock some of the fruit out from under all the savoury notes – but it will be worth the wait.
