I have had Grappa a couple of times before. And while we are in the middle of a cocktail revolution that is sweeping the city Grappa has not made it’s way into many cocktails that I’ve seen. For myself, I prefer spirits that require little fuss and can be enjoyed straight up, or on some ice. You will find Tequila, Whiskey and Gin a staple in my home. As a wine drinker I am lazy … I don’t want to spend a lot of time mixing a complicated cocktail when I can crack open a riesling and drink it right out of the bottle with no fuss beyond chill. When I was invited to visit Aria (25 York Street, Near the Air Canada Centre) I was ready to taste with an open mind. I had a feeling that there was more to Grappa than the burning in my mouth that I have experienced in the past.
I had a chance to sit down with Owner of Aria, Guido Saldini and he shared some of his passion for Grappa with me. If you look at the Aria Grappa list on their website there is a small handful of what is available at the restaurant. Behind the bar you will notice many italian bottles that you have never seen before, most of the Grappa being poured at Aria is not available at the LCBO. I was given a crash course in the whole history of the spirit.
Here’s what you will want to know. Grappa is one of the oldest spirits in existence, it dates back to the 4th century BC in Asyria. It is made with distilled Grapes. Some can be aged in barrel but many are not. This is where this is going to get a bit nerdy — Of the Grappa that was poured for me by Guido most were from single vineyards, made from single varietals. Once you distill a spirit made from a specific varietal it doesn’t hold on to much of it’s life as a wine but each bottle is truly distinct. I had a chance to taste through four different Grappa’s with Guido. Two had been aged in barrel and two had not.
2004 Berta Bric Del Gaian Moscato – There is a slight sweetness on the finish of this oaked grappa. There is a nice floral pressence on the nose and on the finish.
2005 Berta Roccanvino Barbera – Slight floral on the nose and in the mouth with just a hint of sweetness on the finish but to a lesser degree than the moscato. There are nice hints of smoke and a bit of a rough edge on this one.
Berta Valdavi Grappa Di Moscato – there is no wood for this to hide behind. The nose is grassy with hints of floral poking through. There are hints of sweetness and spice and very smooth on the finish.
Berta Nibbio Grappa di Barbera – It would seem slightly sweet is the signature of Grappa but not to the extent that it leaves you with any aftertaste. The alcohol wipes away any sugar and you are left with slight floral qualities that rise to the roof of your mouth (while the spirit warms your tummy)
I was also treated to a Grappa cocktail that included Vermouth(1/2 oz), Grappa (3/4 oz) and Vidal Icewine (1 1/2 oz). All the ingredients work seamlessly together. The sugar from the Icewine is cut right down by the strength of the Grappa. The flavours of the Grappa poke through the finish of this cocktail without compromising the delicious tangerine and honey flavours from the Icewine. The Vermouth gives the cocktail a bit of depth. Everything is working in perfect harmony in this glass.
I haven’t had enough experience with Grappa to be able to score what I tasted but here is what I will tell you. I am planning on heading back to Aria with some friends soon. These are not the sort of spirits you need to worry about pairing with food. I would enjoy this after a meal (because that’s what Guido told me to do) and frankly when I return to Aria I am going to taste through a few different bottles that I didn’t try on my last visit. These are not cheap drinks, but they aren’t too expensive either — most at Aria are around the twenty dollar price point. Frankly if you’re looking to be adventurous and try something new Grappa would be a great place to start.
