It has been far too long since I wrote a proper update to André Wine Review. I apologize for that. I have moved from Toronto to Hamilton. As the 80x Wine Company continues to grow, it is beginning to take more of my attention. I ran two farmers markets a month, on top of working my new day job. I told myself when the move actually took place that moving around Lake Ontario was not moving to the moon – but regardless I have been tasting wine. But I haven’t had a chance to taste at any wineries this summer.
This is the second summer I have missed out on tasting at wineries due to a combination of COVID, and uprooting my life. Before prior to relocating I was doing the commute nearly daily between the two cities, and man… it’s a lot. As I settle in to life in Hamilton, I hope to post here with more regularity. The most exciting part of living in Hamilton is how much closer to Niagara my home is located. As soon as the weather cooperates I plan on biking to Leaning Post winery, which is only a 30 minute ride from my front door!
So all the wines being tasted here were samples that were sent to me. And, there are some great bargain bottles you need in your life.
2020 Flat Rock Sparkling Twisted – $20.15 – **** – (winery only) – There definitely seems to be a trend in Niagara towards delivering affordable bottles of charmat style bubbles. I am thrilled to see these bottles hitting the market. In the summer of 2020 I had a small obsession with aperol spritz. I had some fun swapping out the prosecco for different sparkling wines and found that it did make a big difference in the quality of the cocktail. This is a long way of me saying that the best part about wines like this, is that at this price point you could use it for a cocktail guilt free. Don’t get me wrong, this isn’t cocktail fodder – I would be thrilled to pour this for any occasion. The blend is 98% Riesling, 1% Gewurztraminer, and 1% Chardonnay – The small addition is enough to add a floral lift to this wine. Perfectly balanced acids, great citrus, and orchard fruit.
2019 Stel+Mar Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi, California) – $17.95 – ****+ – The guys from Stel + Mar have done it again with this bottle. I hate that I’m so behind in writing this tasting note – because this was definitely on my table often this summer. The thing about Cali Cab, at this price point, when it’s dry the tannin sticks out like a sore thumb … FULL STOP – that is not the case here. What we have is a sub twenty dollar bottle that could easily sneak into a lineup of entry level Sonoma Cab (no knocks to Lodi lovers here … but the the tannin doesn’t have the signature Early Grey vibe to it). Fruit driven with cassis, blueberry, cherry, and faint whispers of smoke. This is an all killer, no filler bottle of wine that you NEED to have on your table.
2017 Chateau des Charmes ‘Old Vines’ Pinot Noir – $24.95 – **** – (winery only) – Pinot Noir at this price point is a bit of a minefield. So when you stumble upon something delicious make sure you snap some up – this is one of those bottles. 2017 has delivered some of the best Pinot Noir from Ontario I have ever tasted – this one is also no exception. Rich cherry with slight earth notes – both on the nose and on the palate. Broad texture on the back palate is met with nice acidity. Definitely a bottle you can enjoy now but a few years in a cellar would have this wine evolve nicely.
2020 CREW Walk the Plank Fumé Blanc – $19.95 – ****+ – (winery only) – I need to tip my hat to winemaker Ryan Oldridge; Michael Pinkus and I had dared the winemakers of the Lake Erie North Shore to make a Fumé style Sauvignon Blanc from Lake Erie North Shore fruit. This is the result of that. Frankly, this underpriced wine delivers everything I love about this style of wine. Aromas of passion fruit and tangerine are hugged by slight vanilla and spice notes. The fact that we were treated to the killer 2020 summer for this style of wine is an added bonus. This delivers fantastic concentrated fruit notes, but the acid backbone keeps this in perfect balance. I truly hope that this wine remains a part of the lineup from CREW indefinitely.
2019 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot – $39.95 – ****+ – Vintages 616433 (October 16 Release) – Winemaker Lawrence Buhler took the helm of Henry of Pelham in 2018. The immediate impact on the winemaking is something that I have recognized (notably with the much more accessible Chardonnay) quickly since he has taken over. What is remarkable about this wine is that in spite of the challenging 2019 vintage … and it was a tough fall – this wine delivers the goods. When you open a cab merlot from a cooler Niagara vintage you almost expect green notes – but they are nowhere to be found in this bottle. Notes of blueberry, raspberry, and blackberry are met with subtle notes of smoke and spice. Tannin is well integrated, so this is ready to be enjoyed today – but frankly, this wine is phenomenal. I plan on squirrelling a couple of bottles away for 5-7 years to show that even in a cool vintage Niagara can make fantastic Cab Merlot.
2020 Jackson-Triggs White Meritage – $25.95 – **** – Vintages 360297 – This blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon is something I wish we saw more of from Ontario. There is some wonderul texture on the back palate and notes of honey and white flower that fill the palate. Tangerine drives the citrus bus from start to finish in a wine that has seen just a hint of time in older oak barrels. I enjoyed this in a burgundy glass to give the wine some extra exposure to oxygen. If this is a preview of the things to come from the stellar 2020 vintage things are going to be good indeed.
2016 Plume Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – $39.95 – ****+ – Vintages 287367 – A bottle that is all killer and no filler. This screams value even coming in just below forty dollars. The nose is rich cassis with whispers of violet and smoke – on the palate the tannin is soft and well integrated. The fruit flavours are rich and juicy that fill your mouth from cheek to cheek.
2018 Chanson Viré-Clessé – $27.99 – **** – Consignment – I think everyone knows I’m a sucker for Chardonnay, but I don’t usually reach for bottles from Maçon. This was recommended by a friend who works for Rogers and Co. and honestly – this delivered the goods. Rich on the nose and palate with honey, pear, peach, and citrus. Great acid and mineral notes bring up the finish giving you a bottle that is surprisingly easy to pair with foods.
