It’s been awhile since I’ve sat down at Southbrook to do a proper tasting. I think it’s one thing I take advantage of as a consumer in Toronto – we have a handful of wineries that have become mainstays at our various Farmer’s markets. I always look forward to finding Andrew Redelmeier slinging bottles at either the Brickworks, or Wychwood barns in my neighbourhood on weekends. Make sure you follow Southbrook on Instagram to keep up on where they are selling their wines on any given weekend (@southbrookvineyards).
I sat down with owner Bill Redelmeier last month to taste through the whole portfolio. I can say with confidence that the current lineup of wines is stronger than they have been in a little while. While some of the more trendy wines from Southbrook are working their way onto wine lists in the city – the Orange Wine, Cider, and Pet Nat are definitely fan favourites within the City. But I was drawn to some of the (for lack of a better term) more conventional wines from the winery.
2017 Cider – I need to give a tip of the hat to my friend Guillaume, who originates from Normandy, for introducing me to this style of Cider. This is made in a traditional method with carbonation taking place in the bottle. This is very far removed from the sweeter “pub” style cider we would be accustomed to in North America. This punches in at 7% alcohol – but I would happily quaff this out of the bottle while enjoying a sporting event. What’s cool about this is that you can really taste the apple – and I don’t mean the juice that you get when you enjoy a cider in a pub – this tastes like it’s come from a tree. Granted by being forced into the bottles it’s a little bruised and slightly funky – but it tastes great.
2018 Pet Nat – **** – I put together a roundup of all the Pet Nats in Ontario that I could find a couple years ago for Toronto Life. I don’t think anyone would disagree with me that this style of winemaking is trendy – but it’s definitely not going away anytime soon. The offering from Southbrook is made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – I’m not afraid to call this baby sparkling. There is a nice texture to the mid palate thanks to the lees that haven’t been removed from this bottle. The flavours and aromas are citrus, and underripe peach. Alcohol sits around 10% which means – maybe you can drink a second glass if this is your cup of tea.
Just an aside – when I was tasting with Bill I asked him why Southbrook hasn’t made a finished traditional method sparkling – he informed me to stay tuned it will be coming out very soon.
2017 Heather’s Vineyard Riesling – **** – This is an off-dry Riesling that hits all the right notes. Loads of citrus, peach, pear, and apple are mated with a nice mineral note. The acid backbone to this wine does keep it light on the mid palate and the finish is crisp and clean. That being said there is a whisper of fruit flavour that lingers on the finish. I am writing this note in the middle of the winter – but it already has me imagining a warmer day on the patio.
2017 Triomphe Chardonnay – **** – I always look forward to tasting the solid foundation of the Chardonnay portfolio at Southbrook. This always over delivers on price and contains one of the more crowd pleasing examples of Chardonnay in the province. While there are hints of vanilla and spice on the nose and palate, the fruit flavours are what command attention here. Orange, apple, peach, and just a bit of pineapple round out a symphony of fruit in your glass.
2017 Wild Ferment Chardonnay – ****+ – The wild ferment Chardonnays from Ontario are some of the most exciting on the market. This offering from Southbrook is no exception. The aromas of honey, apple, and spice climb out of the glass with intensity. On the palate this delivers nice orchard fruit and tones of bruised apple. This opens up with a nice texture that fills your whole mouth from cheek to cheek. While this may be a little rough around the edges I find this wine exciting. With a long finish and nice complexity this should evolve nicely in a cellar for a few years.
2017 Saunders Chardonnay – ****+ – If the Wild Ferment is a little rough around the edges – the Saunders Chardonnay is the polar opposite. The rich aromas and flavours offer up peach, apple, and orange. With nice notes of vanilla and spice that caress the fruit from start to finish. This walks a strange tightrope between raucous intensity and perfect elegance. The aging potential in this bottle is tough for me to state – because I’m not sure I’d have the patience to hold this for more than a few years.
2017 Saunders Cabernet Franc – ****+ – Loaded with juicy blue fruit, blackberry, and raspberry notes. This is everything that’s right about Cab Franc from Ontario. This is medium bodied with soft tannin already well integrated. I think the best part about this wine is that it’s not trying to be Bordeaux – and that’s a good thing. I would anticipate holding this for 2-3 years to enjoy all the plush juicy fruit in its youth – but this would evolve nicely over 5-10 years.
2017 Laundry Pinot Noir – ****+ – Oozing with cherry and violet notes on the nose and palate. This is rich and thick on the palate – the texture makes this feel like it has an endless amount of juicy fruit flavours in your glass. The wine finishes with nice balance and acidity, but there is a lingering note of violet and vanilla that hangs around for a bit.
2017 Witness Block Cabernet Sauvignon – ****+ – If there’s evidence that 2017 is a bit of a sleeper vintage when it comes to Bordeaux style reds this is an exhibit to that case. As with the Saunders Cab Franc you have a more elegant – and perfectly ripe – medium bodied version of Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannin is soft and well integrated. I wouldn’t want to keep this stowed away in a cellar for a long time. The plush blackberry, blueberry, and cherry are delicious and vibrant. I would really want to get to the fruit while it’s young. But I don’t think you would regret holding a bottle of two for 5-8 years.
2015 Poetica – ****½ – It’s been awhile since I’ve had a chance to taste Poetica – it’s nice to see that the top tier at Southbrook is still delivering the goods. This blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon is mated with 28% Petit Verdot. Loaded with juicy cassis, blackberry, and raspberry fruit flavours. This is mated with cedar smoke, and cocoa notes. The tannin is soft and well integrated – but this is definitely built to cellar for 8-12.
