For the second annual Ontario’s Ultimate Wine Competition, we invited wineries from across the province to submit one wine – the bottle they believe is their very best. Eighteen wineries answered the call, giving us everything from Chardonnay and Riesling to Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and sparkling wine.
The rules are simple. Every wine is tasted completely blind in a randomly drawn tournament. The opening two rounds featured flights of three, with one wine eliminated from each flight. From the quarterfinals onward, it was head-to-head, single elimination. To keep things fair, the wines were renumbered between rounds so we couldn’t track our favourites. Legendary Canadian wine writer Tony Aspler joined us as our third judge and referee.
After five rounds of tasting, debating and occasionally disagreeing, we were left with four remarkable wines. A Merlot, a Riesling, a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Franc. Here’s how Ontario’s best stacked up.
Champion – Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery
2020 Ravine Reserve Merlot – $55.00 – ****1/2 – This wine is nothing short of remarkable. The nose delivers perfectly ripe red fruit with an intensity that doesn’t sacrifice elegance. Cherry dominates, and there is a density to the wine that suggests something much bigger than what you actually experience on the palate. The oak is beautifully integrated, never getting in the way of the fruit. What makes this wine so special is the tannin structure. There is plenty of it, but it’s so fine and well integrated that it never feels like an assault on your tongue. Instead, everything works in harmony, and the finish is seamless with a lovely kiss of candied cherry on the way down. This is the sort of Ontario red that makes you want to keep pouring another glass. I was surprised when the label was revealed because I didn’t expect this to be a Merlot… let alone from 2020. It was showing remarkably youthful, and I suspect there is plenty of life left in this bottle. It’s drinking beautifully right now, but I would have no hesitation putting a few away in the cellar.
Runner-Up – Horseshoe Cellars
2025 Kelson Block Riesling – $34.99 – ****1/2 – Right from the first sip, this wine demanded attention. The nose and palate deliver beautiful notes of Golden Delicious apple, with tropical fruit adding some complexity. What I love about this wine is the balance. There is just enough residual sugar to give the fruit some generosity, but the acidity keeps everything focused. It’s not bone dry, but I wouldn’t call it off-dry either. It’s sitting right in that sweet spot where I think Ontario Riesling shines. The palate is rich and full of flavour, but the finish is quick, clean and refreshing. There is nothing lingering on the back of your tongue that gets in the way of wanting another sip. This tastes like Ontario, and I mean that as the highest possible compliment. This is a brilliantly crafted Riesling and a bottle that deserves some serious attention.
Semifinalist – CREW: Colchester Ridge Estate Winery
2024 Flagship Chardonnay – $22.95 – ****1/2 – The nose is more mineral-driven than fruit-forward, but the moment it hits your palate, the wine completely changes gears. There is a remarkable intensity of tropical fruit, with mango, tangerine and pineapple giving this wine some serious personality. The oak is definitely present, but it doesn’t overpower the fruit. Instead, I was picking up notes of sponge toffee and tangerine on the back palate. The density in this wine is impressive and there is a concentration of flavour here that I don’t often find in Ontario Chardonnay, even among bottles that cost considerably more. At $22.95, this is an exceptional showing from Lake Erie North Shore and a wine that should make people pay attention to what CREW is doing.
Semifinalist – Tawse Winery
2022 David’s Block Cabernet Franc – $50.95 – ****1/2 – There is a wonderful ripeness to the fruit, with cassis taking centre stage rather than the lighter red fruit character I often associate with Ontario Bordeaux varieties. The nose is generous, and the palate delivers excellent concentration and complexity without losing its elegance. There is plenty of structure here, and the wine is beautifully made. I suspect a little more time in the cellar will help those tannins settle down. An excellent Cabernet Franc that deserved its place in the final four.
