Last summer was a challenge for all small businesses thanks to the pandemic. But for many business owners it was a period of tremendous ingenuity. How do you get your wines into the hands of people who want to try it? When you run a premium winery like Adnan and Elif Icel it can be a challenge to convince people to drop 40 dollars on a bottle of wine they haven’t tasted. So when they started packaging their wines into 50 ml tasting bottles I don’t think even they could have predicted the demand. For eighty dollars you get a beautiful box that includes 10 premium wines from the Icellars portfolio.
I remember when I first visited the winery the tremendous pride from Adnan and Elif in the quality being presented in the Bordeaux varietals being presented. I know consumers tend to get excited when we get hot, dry summer like we have had in 2020, 2016 and 2012. But Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot can be finicky and a challenge in cooler vintages. All that being said – when I had the opportunity to taste through this box with Adnan I was stunned with the quality of the wines … for more than one reason.
First, the quality of the wines being presented in the box is exactly what I would hope for as though I was visiting the winery. I don’t know why I would have expected anything less as the no compromise quality is one of the signatures of Icellars. Second, the wines being presented now are from 2017, 2018, and 2019 – not exactly vintages known for being heavy hitters when it comes to delivering stunning Cab Sauv, and Merlot. Third, and what I find most exciting, the quality of the non Bordeaux varietal is significantly improved – and that’s not taking away from previous stunning vintages of Chardonnay. The current lineup of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah are among the best in Niagara. If you don’t believe me that’ fine – you can get your own sampler box by clicking here – https://www.icellars.ca/shop/premium-pack
2017 Pinot Noir – $50.00 – ****½ – This PInot Noir is made from estate fruit. I know that Adnan and Elif are still in the process of planting their entire property – it is exciting to see the progress as the winery continues to grow. Delivering both finesse and muscle are something I find exciting about Pinot Noir from Niagara on the Lake. The aromas are ripe cherry caressed in violet. On the palate this ripe cherry opens up with a nice intensity and is mated with a subtle earthiness, a dash of vanilla, and juicy blackberry. The tannin has a slight grip to it, but some light decanting will allow this to mellow if you decide to enjoy this now. The structure of this wine will give it a long life in a cellar should you decide to hold it – I would count on this being at it’s peak in 2024 and to hold until 2030.
2017 Arinna – $45.00 – ****+ – Made from the Icellars estate this assemblage of 47% merlot, 26% cabernet sauvignon, 20% cabernet franc, 7% malbec spend 24 months(ish) in a mix of french and american oak. The aromas are bright and fruity with ripe red cherry, dark cherry, and candied cherry – ok – so there’s a lot of cherry notes here. On the palate this opens up to bring strawberry, and cassis. The tannin is soft, but the deeper into the sample shows that this wine is not quite ready to deliver it’s best self. I find it interesting that the tannin also brings a bit of black tea notes to the finish of this wine – but manages to do so without being astringent. A delicious red blend, from a challenging vintage showing that it’s not only the early ripening varieties that were saved by the miracle fall in 2017. Enjoy 2024-2030
2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – $90.00 – ****+ – This Cab Sauv was aged for 24 months in new oak barrels. The rich, concentrated, and juicy black currant nose oozes out of the glass with such weight it feels tangible. The way the aromas hit your nose feel like a warm embrace and the intensity when the wine hits your mouth matches the nose. I would not guess that all the oak on this is brand new due to the terrific balance in the glass. The juicy dark fruit is mated with a symphony of spice – it feels like each sip delivers a different part of the spice cabinet – cinnamon, clove, nutmeg. When the wine rolls off the back of your tongue charred cedar makes an appearance. The tannin is already well integrated and smooth if you have no patience to put this in your cellar. I would hold this until 2027-2033 before taking it from my cellar.
2018 Syrah Wismer Parke – $45.00 – ****+ – From the Wismer-Parke vineyard this is possibly the lightest wine I’ve ever tasted from Icellars – but that’s not a bad thing. Pure elegance in a bottle – this is a welcome addition to a lineup of fine Syrah’s in the province. Notes of cherry with strong hints of spice. The palate delivers a slight note of campfire smoke. The finish leaves spice and smoke on the finish with soft and elegant tannins. This is ready to enjoy now – but will hold until 2026.
2018 Cabernet Sauvignon – $55.00 – **** – Made with estate fruit and two years in barrel (there seems to be a consistent formula here) has delivered a Cabernet Sauvignon that has some juicy notes of Strawberry, Cherry, and Black Currant. Compared to warmer vintages from Icellars the fruit skews more towards red fruit as opposed to darker fruit you might normally expect. The tannin is velvet soft on the palate – and this may be the most approachable vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon yet from this winery. That being said – don’t discount this bottle if you want to continue stocking your cellar with these wines. Drink in 2021 with an hour in a decanter or hold until 2028.
2019 Sauvignon Blanc – $35.00 – ****½ – Whoa man! This was another unexpected gem from Icellar – I am writing this note barefoot because this wine blew my socks off. The problem with well made fume style blanc is that you could open a bottle and enjoy it with a straw – but this is clearly structured to soften and evolve with at least a year or two in a cellar (do you think I’m going to have that patience … no way). Concentrated passion fruit, and pink grapefruit are bright and juicy – but mated with perfect searing acidity. Honestly, this is one of those wines I couldn’t pair with food – not because it wouldn’t pair with food – but because this demands you give it the attention and respect it deserves. 2021-2025.
2018 Chardonnay – $40.00 – **** – The chardonnay from Icellars is always something I look forward to. It’s always good – but I think every vintage delivers something completely different. The 2018 vintage offer aromas of fresh peach, and pineapple with hints of spice and vanilla. Nice texture on the mid palate but this is still restrained and has nice elegance. The finish is medium long with notes of spice and subtle mineral that linger. Enjoy now or hold until 2026.
2017 Merlot – $45.00 – ****+ – There is something un-niagara about this Merlot – for one it’s perfectly ripe, which is not unusual from a winery that has been known to hang their fruit well into the late fall. But, the massive texture, and plush juicy strawberry and cherry notes definitely feel like this wine comes from somewhere a little warmer than the 2017 vintage should have allowed. The tannin has a nice grip to it politely asking to be set aside in a cellar for a few more years before being released. Enjoy 2024-2030.
2016 Wiyana Wanda – ****+ – $85.00 – This blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Malbec was aged in new french oak for 24 months. This is the flagship blend from Icellars and comes from the hot 2016 summer – hopefully this is something that can tide us over until the 2020 vintage is available. Given this has a couple of years in bottle already the tannin has already begun to soften and this caressed your tongue like a velvet hug. This covers the spectrum of what you would expect from niagara going from tart raspberry to juicy strawberry, and rich cassis – notes of spice and smoke complement the torrent of fruit in the bottle. A choice bottle to add to your cellar to enjoy from 2027-2033.
