it feels like all is right with the world now that Le Clos Jordanne has had a few vintages under its belt since its return a few years ago. It’s almost like there’s balance in the force. I still don’t feel like Arterra has managed to completely knock it out of the park with this label. Don’t get me wrong, there’s a lot more right, than wrong with the 2019 vintage. However, using glass bottles that weigh as much as a small child do nothing to help revive the image of this brand. In a region, and industry where sustainability is front and centre for most brands… this move seems to cater to a mindset that caters to baby boomer mentality… if it’s heavy, it should be expensive.
I should also say, that stylistically the 2019 version of this wine feels like a departure from the elegant 2017 and 2018 vintages. The 2019 version feels a little heavy handed on use of oak and brings this to the new world in style. It’s a reminder that while the wine industry in Niagara is approaching fifty years old we still haven’t cut out a clear stylistic identity. The Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir from companion brand Inniskillin continues to be outstanding, but also out of step with most wineries in Niagara.
When you pick up a well made bottle of Chardonnay, it seems the line in the sand is how the producer is using their oak barrels. Even in California I find the notes of vanilla and spice to be restrained, even in more affordable bottles these days. Ok – I realize that I have been a bit negative in how I have framed these wines. But, let me assure you – these wines are still great. I just want to set an expectation for the consumer. If you enjoy well made Chardonnay from South Africa, New Zealand, or Australia – this might be more your speed. If you enjoy Pinot Noir from Oregon, or New Zealand – the Pinot might be up your alley as well.
2019 Le Grand Clos Chardonnay – **** – $44.95 – As mentioned in the note above – there are sharp notes of vanilla and spice that offer no apologies in announcing their presence in your glass. But, they do not overpower the peach, pear, and tangerine notes. If there is a line in the sand between old world, and new world. It seems that Arterra and Le Grand Clos have decided New World is where they belong. This is a vast departure from the burgundian leaning 2017 and 2018 vintages of this wine. But, if you love new world – gravitate to this. I am curious to see how this wine ages – I do believe this wine has a long life ahead of it, and should evolve nicely over the next 5-10 years (it is sealed with a screwcap).
2019 Le Grand Clos Pinot Noir – **** – $44.95 – There are strong notes of vanilla that layer over red cherry, and dark cherry notes. I feel as though this is another wine where the intention is made for it to spend some time in a cellar. But, I feel as though the use of oak is a bit out of line with most wineries in Niagara, and not what I would expect from winemaker Thomas Bachelder. If you’re a fan of Oregon, or New Zealand this is up your alley … it also cements why Thomas, who spent time making wine for Lemelson in Oregon, is the right winemaker to deliver these goods. Wait 5-10 years before revisiting, but expect something a bit over the top if you can’t wait that long.
