A couple weeks ago I was quite publicly depressed about missing I4C this year. But it was thrilling to see all my fellow chardonnay fans holding their own private, socially distanced celebrations. There were so many pictures on instagram from past celebrations. The I4C itself hosted a wonderful morning session on Friday bringing in previous keynote speakers.
In doing my own look back at I4C it turns out that there is a year that stands out as a favourite. In 2017, Canada arrived at the Niagara airport with bells on. This was the first time I have seen Chardonnay from four provinces all represented at the event. Ontario and BC have been in the Chardonnay game for a long time. Nova Scotia is still turning heads with incredible sparkling wines. This year Quebec arrived, and didn’t hold back.
I met Yvan Quirion prior to I4C on the streets of Saguenay at the Festival des Vins. I was impressed with the portfolio he was pouring at the street festival. The quality of the hybrids was high, certainly enough to hold my attention. He also poured a Pinot Gris that was very good. Domaine St Jacques manages their vineyards using geo textiles to protect the vines in the winter. While hybrid grapes do make up the foundation of the Domaine St Jacques portfolio there is a solid assortment of vinifera planted as well. Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Riesling, and Chardonnay are all growing in the Quebecois soil.
I was impressed with the potential of the Quebecois Chardonnay when I tasted them in 2017. Domaine St Jacques and Coteau Rougemont were pouring their Chardonnay that sweltering night at the airport. While the vineyards and the wine region may not have the experience that the rest of Canada has in terms of their Chardonnay swagger – but they definitely made an impression.
So, for part of my private #I4C20 #I4CatHome celebration I opened two bottles of Domaine St-Jacques Chardonnay’s that I had been saving for an occasion when I would want to open two bottles of wine. The 2015 and 2017 bottles were locked and loaded. I tasted both of these wines on a visit to the winery, and I remember the oak treatment on them being a little rambunctious upon opening. I knew they needed a bit of time. What did a couple of years in bottle do to these wines? The answer is – good things! The 2015 was teeming with mineral notes. The oak flavours had united with golden delicious apple to deliver pure elegance. I am disappointed in myself for not being better prepared with some shucked oysters for this tasting. The 2017 had also found a seamless amalgamation of vanilla mated to golden delicious apple. The mineral note is strong across both these wines, but it was still shy in the 2017. I imagine a couple more years in bottle for the latter will also unleash some more of the mineral notes. There is something very chablisienne about these wines. Currently the 2018 vintage is for sale at the winery. I can’t think of a single reason to not run out and try it right now – but make sure you bring some oysters.
