This trip to France I made my second visit to Dominique Piron. When I arrived at the winery I had an opportunity to sit down with Dominique, and there was also some students studying wine at a university nearby. It was interesting to get a perspective of Beaujolais from young wine students in France. It really seems that Beaujolais continues to be an unsung hero in France and in the world.
My last visit was in 2014 so it had been a few years. I have been flying the flag high for this winery because my last visit to this winery I was greeted with a bulletproof portfolio. Some of these wines are available through Lifford in Ontario, occasionally at the SAQ but my access to these wines has been sparse. I needed to get back to this place to make sure that I wasn’t thinking about Piron through rose coloured glasses – it turns out I wasn’t disappointed.
What was interesting – was that the wines I loved in 2014 were very different than what was great on this visit. The entire portfolio was (again) bulletproof with each wine being something I would love to have on my table but the Cote du Py was a very clear standout. The students I was tasting with thought so too.
I already can’t wait to visit this winery again.
2017 Blanc – This wine tells a story of mineral from start to finish. Fruit is fresh orchard fruit – apple and pear with searing acidity on the finish.
2017 Brouilly – ****+ – The intensity of aromas and flavours in this wine ooze out of the glass the moment you raise it to your face. There are spice notes of clove and allspice layered over ripe cherry, and raspberry. I don’t usually focus on the colour but this is surprisingly pale and light.
2017 Cote du Py (Morgon) – **** – Cote du Py is a special site within Morgon – these wines are rich and concentrated. Black cherry, with slight smokiness. Aging potential is easily 15-20 years for this bottle in a proper cellar.
2016 Cote du Py (Morgon) – ***** – From a high quality producer when a wine really stands out in the portfolio it really stands out. This feels like vinous pyrotechnics when it hits your palate – the concentration of ripe cherry, blackberry, and blueberry flavours feel endless. The finish on this wine has nicely balanced acidity, but the finish is long and juicy. The tannin is velvet smooth but the structure of this wine could have you let it sit in a cellar for 15-20 years.
2016 Chiroubles – **** – This bottle covers extremes for what you can expect from Gamay. This goes from candied cherry to cracked black pepper – while Beaujolais is approachable from the onset this is exceptionally easy drinking right now.
2015 Chenas Quartz – **** – Vanilla and ripe cherry on the nose and on the palate. There is an interesting mineral note that goes from nose to finish. This bottle is beautifully elegant and drinking great right now.
