Derek Barnett’s Meldville wines are still one of the most exciting additions to the landscape of Ontario over the past couple years. The core lineup of wines is still exciting and tasted – and frankly, I enjoy having each bottle labeled by edition. It’s an interesting way to track which bottles are in your cellar, and what you’ve tasted. That being said – there are some interesting things hitting the shelves from Meldville. Here’s what you should go get your hands on.
2017 Fumé Blanc – $25.00 – ****+ – This Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in a 3rd fill barrel. I love that the quality of Sauvignon Blanc from Ontario is still flying under the radar, but the other thing I love about this is that wineries are really experimenting with this grape. The results are truly fun, and exciting to taste. With this bottle there is a mineral note mingling with slight smoke, and it’s layered over pineapple, passion fruit, and guava. The texture of this wine is massive, rich, and concentrated. The finish is long and satisfying.
2017 Canadian Oak Chardonnay – $27.00 – ****+ – I love the dilemma created by this wine as it’s so delicious right now – but given some time in a cellar it will blossom into something even bigger and more complex. While many wineries in Niagara have really hit their stride in use of Canadian Oak it’s safe to say that Derek was one of the first to master it. The texture of this wine feels like an invasion as it opens up in your mouth and fills it from cheek to cheek with flavours of spice, vanilla, peach, pineapple, orange, and apple. The definition of balance, and frankly just tasty.
2017 Barrel Select Pinot Noir – $38.00 – ****½ – This is a return to form from the Meldville label – I still vividly remember tasting the lot 48 with Derek from the 2010 vintage, and when I took my first sip of this barrel select my mind was taken back to that moment. This is a pinot with some power and force – so if you’re looking for intensity drink this young. But I anticipate with 3 or 4 years in a cellar it should settle down and emerge from the bottle as liquid silk. There is intense dark cherry, blackberry, violet, and mossy spring forest floor. Each individual note unapologetically announces itself on the nose and on the palate, but each sip in my first glass of this wine brought more and more harmony. I recognize this was tasted way too soon, but I already can’t wait to revisit this wine.
