Two weeks ago I got some exciting news via Twitter that Vineland Estates and Henry of Pelham have started their Icewine harvest. I am not the biggest fan of Icewine, but as a fan of the Ontario Wine industry this is still reason to get excited. Icewine is something that Ontario has been doing well for quite some time now, and as much as I trumpet Cabernet Franc, Baco Noir, Chardonnay or Riesling as signatures of Ontario nothing will ever be the Signature of Ontario quite like that sweet beverage that comes as a reward for putting up with the harsh growing conditions. Since those tweets however, the temperature has climbed back up to well above normal for this time of year and it has put the Icewine crop at risk for the second year. When I was looking for some wines to bring on to the show with John Tory (Jan 17) I spoke with a couple of wineries who told me that in 2011 they didn’t even get any grapes off the vine. The challenge is not only waiting for the grapes to freeze, but you have to wait for them to freeze to the right temperature (minus 8 as set out by the VQA).
Learning about these conditions I ask myself is it time to panic? Not quite yet. Something interesting has been happening with the wine being produced close to home. In fact, speaking with several wine makers over the past two years I am learning that the domestic demand for Icewine is shrinking, and there is a growing appetite for the great table wines being produced. I don’t have the evidence to back it up but we are coming off a great run of growing years (2007, 2010 and 2012… with 2010 and 2012 being lauded as two of the best harvests EVER). Even with the off years producing some fantastic wines (my favorite Cabernet Franc’s are from 2008 and 2009).
I have found some great Icewine’s that are still worth checking out. And one product from Vineland Estates that has found a way to take some of the edge off of the very sweet wine.
Vice Icewine Vodka – LCBO 158212 – $34.95
Vineland 2008 Riesling Icewine – VINTAGES 563445 – $39.95
Tawse 2009 Riesling Icewine – VINTAGES 204990 – $34.95