You can check out my conversation with Grant Westcott, and Casey Kulczyk below here. While it was interesting to taste through the lineup of Chardonnay from Westcott the conversation took a few interesting turns. I think the first thing was having so many different expressions of the same grape I drew parallels to clothing – Michael felt that unoaked chardonnay with some lees stirring was covering something up – where I argued that regardless of treatment with lees that wine is naked.
At the end of the podcast Grant asked us about whether we’re doing a good enough job defining the region – I think that is an interesting question. In short, I would say yes – but we have a double edged sword that is making it very hard to specifically define the region. While we have a handful of grape varieties climbing to the top of the hill I don’t know if I would want restrictions in place of what people can plant here. And when you have a region that has such variety it’s hard to define. So – I guess the shortest way to define Ontario wine is – acid? Anyways – you’ll have to listen to the podcast
Brilliant Sparkling 2013 – $39.99 – **** – This traditional method sparkler is an equal blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – and it definitely lives up to its name. The nose is rich with aromas of toasted bread, roasted almond, and lemon. The flavours deliver the same complexity you get from the nose – with a nice addition of subtle vanilla, and golden delicious apple. While this wine certainly doesn’t need any time in a cellar I would expect this to evolve in a very interesting way over then next few years – so pick up more than one.
2019 Lillias Chard – $24.99 – **** – Generally speaking I don’t spend a lot of time with unoaked Chardonnay – I just find a bit of time in barrel makes things a bit more exciting. That being said it’s nice to be reminded that in the hands of a good winemaker you can get interesting naked expressions of the grape. Lillias has a lifted mineral note that runs from the nose to the clean finish. The aromas and flavours are ripe apple, peach, and pear. Thanks to some lees stirring there is a little bit of weight on the mid palate that allows the orchard fruit to really set up shop. I can see this being a crowd pleasing wine to serve at a post Covid-19 dinner party.
2018 Estate Chard – $29.99 – **** – For “entry level” to the Westcott portfolio this feels anything but – the texture to this wine is massive – and frankly – that’s just awesome. I want to say that this Chardonnay lacks restraint, but I would be lying. It’s ready to party – it’s not fussy – there is tons of vanilla, peach, pineapple, apple, and butterscotch in this wine. But this loud party animal is tamed with bright acidity. The finish is satisfying with notes of vanilla that linger – but not for too long. I imagine this being a person showing up to the party in a vintage adidas track suit.
2018 Reserve Chard – $44.99 – ****+ – When you get to the reserve section of the Westcott lineup you’re talking about wines that have some serious complexity. The aromas are vanilla, spice, and orchard fruit – but there’s also a slight salinity to this. Flavours match the nose – and that makes this dangerously easy to drink. The mineral note and salinity just leave your mouth salivating for the next sip. The creamy vanilla and butterscotch are matched perfectly with beautiful orchard fruit. The barrel influence is front and centre right now (May 2020) but with 12 to 36 months in a cellar it’s going to snap into focus. In the podcast I said this was the party guest who showed up in a sport jacket – this is a respectably summer dinner party- fashionable, but comfortable.
2018 Block 76 Chard – $44.99 – ****+ – If the rest of the Westcott Chardonnay portfolio is ready to party – there is one guest that does seem to attract more attention. This is the pinnacle of elegance from an Ontario Chardonnay – it is so soft and round on the palate. There is a nice intensity to the vanilla, spice, tropical, and orchard fruit – but it is caressed by mineral. I love how this is both massively complex but restrained and elegant at the same time. If James Bond ever tasted this wine he’d ditch the martini, and switch to this wine – perfectly dressed up in a crisp tuxedo
