It is fascinating to see how vastly different vintage conditions can be – and more importantly how they can affect the way a wine tastes. I know that’s a pretty basic statement but in Niagara comparing 2018 to 2017 is a little bit crazy. The vintages seemed to be mirror versions of each other. 2017 was a long cool summer with a hot and dry fall – where 2018 was a glorious hot, dry summer only to be met with a long, cool, damp fall. I think this is why I gravitate to Chardonnay in particular – regardless of the vintage conditions you end up with something delicious – and the same with Pinot Noir – these early ripening varieties should have been spared the worst of the weather. How did the lineup from Bachelder turn out from 2018?
2018 Bachelder Niagara Chardonnay – Vintages 302083 – $24.95 – ***½+ – This continues to be a go-to when people ask me what to buy from the LCBO – what to buy from Niagara. Winemaker Thomas Bachelder continues to deliver the goods, with no corners cut with this label. The aromas are orchard fruit, but there is a bit of conflict with the vanilla and spice – this may have hit the market a bit too soon because in six months there will probably be balance to the force. Don’t get me wrong this is well worth the price of admission coming in just under twenty five dollars – but the vintage variation is very apparent with the Niagara label Chardonnay. I recently did a #cellarit on the 2017 Niagara Chardonnay – I would easily do a repeat with this vintage.
2018 Les Villages Chardonnay – $34.95 ****+ – The les villages is a barrel selection of Wismer-Foxcroft, Wismer-Wingfield, and Willms vineyard juice. This delivers a wonderfully complex wine that (as with the Niagara) punches way out of its weight class. While the single vineyard bottles cost about fifteen more a bottle this would definitely be a gateway to get you to see the sum of its parts. There is a banana and caramel note on the nose and on the palate that mingles well with apple, pear, and orange flavours. If you can only afford one bottle from this release of Bachelder Chardonnay this will not disappoint you.
2018 Willms “1983 Plantation” – $44.95 – **** – Before the crappy wet fall ruined our fall in 2018 we got a hot, dry, glorious summer – you can find that captured in this bottle with delicious flavours of mango, pineapple, and tangerine. Texture is broad on the back palate where vanilla and subtle spice notes start to make an appearance. This does need a bit of time either decanted, or in a cellar (3-6 years) to really settle down. With a bit of patience the fruit notes should settle down, and the spice notes should command the attention they deserve.
2018 Wismer-Foxcroft “Nord” – $47.95 – **** – If you love restraint and mineral notes this is the bottle for you. The nose brings chalk – the mineral note really tells the story of this wine. Every sip of this wine is caressed in crunchy mineral – the nose is peaches and cream. The palate delivers peaches, pears, and subtle baking spice notes … wrapped in mineral. The finish tries to deliver something long – but is cut short by nice acidity and a mineral note that lingers. This wine does have a long life ahead of it – buy and hold for 5-7 years
2018 Wismer-Wingfield “Ouest” – $47.95 – **** – Strikes a nice balance between Willms and Wismer-Foxcroft – winemaker Thomas Bachelder had me taste these wine from closest to the lake to farthest away – Willms is closest, Foxcroft is farthest. This delivers ripe orchard fruit – but it doesn’t get to the point of tropical. Ripe peach, pear, and a slightly oxidized note help nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice sing. I can’t help but feel like this needs more time in bottle before it really reaches its potential so hold this for 5-7 years.
2018 Wismer-Parke Pinot Noir – **** – The rich violet notes ooze out of the top of the glass before you can even raise it to your nose. Fruit flavours are quite tart in spite of the hot summer – you find notes of cherry and cranberry. This wine really does tell a story of all kinds of spice with slight clove on the nose moving to anise on the finish. Cellar for 5-7 years or enjoy in its youth.
2018 Wismer-Parke Pinot Noir “Wild West-End” – ****½ – The Wild West end of Wismer-Parke lives up to it’s name – there is something rustic and a little sauvage on the nose. There are wines I’ve tasted in Beaujolais where the producers call them ‘presqu’pinot’ – this almost feels like it could be ‘presqu’gamay’. I say that in the best way possible. If the texture of good Pinot from the onset is silk – the texture of Wild West is more like the texture of fantastic demon. Aromas are violet and blackberry compote. On the palate this moves to cherry, blackberry, and cranberry. On the finish this brings more spice and more perfume than regular Wismer-Parke. This is a must buy – something to enjoy now or in the next 5-7 years.
2018 Lowrey Old Vines Pinot Noir – **** – The vines that produced the fruit in this wine were planted in 1988 and 1993. Which means these vines have some nice age to them – but they arent’ the oldest vines in the Lowrey vineyard (more on that in a bit). While Wismer-Parke may have been denim – this is most definitely silk. Aromas are cherry, blackberry, and vanilla. On the palate the texture is soft and silky but the fruit opens up with nice concentration, and the texture on the back palate is broad … yet somehow restrained. This won’t need as much time in the cellar as your 2017 Bachelder’s – but it will be good to have something to quench your thirst for a few years. Hold for 4-6 years or enjoy now.
2018 Lowrey “1984 Plantation” Pinot Noir – **** – The 1984 vines from the Lowrey vineyard are coveted by a handful of winemakers in the province and always a show stopper. This doesn’t disappoint – in spite of it’s nearly rosé colour this delivers a rich milk chocolate nose dancing in tandem with ripe red cherry. The moment this hits your palate it opens up with intensity… and yet restraint. I don’t usually think of elegance when it comes to Pinot Noir from Niagara on the Lake – I love the tension and the earthiness that takes a bit of time to settle down. But is just isn’t there in 2018 … and that’s not a bad thing. Approachable, concentrated, elegant, and delicious enjoy this for the next 4-6 years.
