There’s 106 miles to Chicago Sonoma, we’ve got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it’s dark out, and we’re wearing sunglasses. – Hit it!
When I rented my Mustang convertible on that Saturday in May I couldn’t help but think of that quote, one of my favorite lines from the Blues Brothers. I had one day in Sonoma County, I had to make the most of it. Given the fact that spring and summer took their sweet time coming to Toronto I was going to covet every damned minute of sunshine available to me.
Immediately I can tell you that if you have never driven top down in the California sunshine should you have the means I highly recommend it. The drive from the Napa Valley into Sonoma is fun and much less stressful than crossing the Rockies in Canada.
I had the time to make three winery stops. I learned from my previous visit to California that it’s better to give yourself some more time at each of the wineries. It also took some careful planning because even though geographically many of the wineries can look close together on google maps, it took careful planning to make sure that my travel time between each winery was manageable.
My first stop was at Comstock Wines. I visited this winery in 2015 while it was in the final stages of finalizing construction. I wanted to see how things looked when they were finished. The atmosphere in the tasting room was the same warm welcome I received in 2015, but things were much more polished. The wines are entry level premium in price, expect to pay around fifty dollars for a great bottle of red. The entire portfolio is worth tasting. The focus is on big red wines with Zinfandel forming the cornerstone.
2017 Sauvignon Blanc – $28.00 (USD) – Bright and citrus with a nice tropical layer. This wine maintains great acidity and stays light and crisp on the finish.
2014 Chardonnay – $50.00 (USD) – Only ⅓ of this wine has undergone malolactic fermentation giving it a restraint on texture. This is an outstanding example of what great balanced California Chardonnay should be.
2012 Zinfandel, Dry Creek – $48.00 (USD) – It’s hard to picture elegance in a 15.6% alcohol Zinfandel, but that is what is accomplished in this bottle. Raspberry, cherry, blackberry, and spice are all in great abundance in this bottle.
2014 Zinfandel, Rockpile – $60.00 (USD) – A little cooler and even more elegant (there’s a theme here at Comstock). The fruit is blueberry, blackberry, plum, cassis, cocoa, and spice. The aging potential in this bottle is easily 10-15 years.
2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley – $65.00 (USD) – Very rich cocoa and cassis. The tannin is already velvet smooth and this is ready to drink now if you enjoy your wines young. Should you have some patience it will relax in bottle over the next three to five years – but the aging potential is easily a decade in this bottle.
Ridge Lytton Springs is another high point and the definition of great hospitality. The wines are outstanding, but for a winery that is well known for their Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon, offers an experience for those who don’t have the money to dole out on the coveted top tier wine. I was greeted with a taste of Rosé – For $29USD you get a Grenache, Mataro, and Zinfandel blend that offer soft red berry fruit and a nice clean finish. In spite of the California heat this is a beautifully elegant bottle. The tasting room is busy, but there are plenty of staff on hand so you’re not waiting too long between wines. The Lytton Spring field blends get the same “serious” treatment as the Cabernet Sauvignon. This winery is not only a benchmark for quality in Sonoma County but for wineries anywhere on the planet. Make sure you visit the facility if you’re ever in the area.
2016 Ridge Estate Chardonnay – $55.00 (USD) – There is a well pronounced mineral note in this bottle that goes from start to finish. Layered over that is vanilla, peach, and pineapple. Great acidity keeps this nicely balanced.
2016 Paso Robles Zinfandel – $35.00 (USD) – Black tea, brimming with juicy red fruit on the nose and on the palate.
2016 East Bench Zinfandel – $32.00 (USD) – Cocoa and clove are mingled in with nice raspberry, cherry, strawberry, plum, and cassis. There is nice acidity balancing this wine.
2015 Lytton Springs – $40.00 (USD) – I’ll be honest I didn’t pay attention to the assemblage on this… the number on this page won’t convey the elegance that you find in this bottle. Fruit is blueberry, plum, blackberry and cassis with nice spice notes.
2015 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – $55.00 (USD) – To me, this is the wine that is worth the trip. As far as California Cabernet Sauvignon is concerned you’re hard pressed to find a bottle that delivers better value than this (even at this price).
I then headed into Geyserville to spend my evening and night. The village is at the centre of some great wines, and a perfect place to hang your hat if you’re going to be doing a day or two in wine country. I stayed at the Geyserville Inn, a comfortable and quaint hotel. It offers a great balance of comfort, and convenience while at the same time giving off a small town vibe. It’s the sort of vibe that exists off the beaten path, and something I haven’t enjoyed since I drove Route 66.
I walked up Geyserville Avenue to a stretch of businesses where you can easily spend an evening. I walked in to Diavola Pizzeria to a packed house, and with some bit of irony I managed to watch the Winnipeg Jets playoff hockey while sitting at the bar. There is something about watching a hockey game while realizing you should have bought sunscreen while driving a convertible on a hot California day in May. And, with that observation – if you do decide to rent a convertible in California – make sure you get sunscreen. The pizza I ate at Diavola was interesting on its own. It’s hard to describe the style – it goes halfway between Napoli thin crust and good ol’ New York style – but it’s a little more polished than that. On the suggestion of more than one person in town I ordered Sonja – a pie with Tomato, Mascarpone, Prosciutto, and Arugula. The wine list is stocked with local selections and the craft beer scene is alive and well to the point where, as a Canadian, I can no longer use American beer as a punchline.
I finished my day in Sonoma at the Geyserville Gun Club. Which is not what it sounds like. Another establishment packed with locals looking for a cocktail at the end of the day. There is a hipster vibe to the bar that would have it fit right in anywhere in Toronto. The menu is posted on the wall with a variety of cocktails that I will describe as the “fancy” variety. I enjoyed the Gun Clubs take on a Whiskey sour. It was at this point I was regretting the fact that I only had one day in Geyserville. I headed back to my hotel room so I could make the drive into San Francisco early the next morning.
With Sonoma County in my rear view mirror and making the early morning drive into San Francisco I can’t help but ask myself, is it too soon to plan my next trip to California?