One of my first stops in the Okanagan was to Sperling Estates. I have long been a fan of Ann Sperling’s work at Southbrook. So, as soon as I knew I was heading out west my first point of order was to make sure I got a chance to visit Ann’s family winery. I had a chance to taste through the portfolio with Rickard Branby. He is the Assistant Winemaker and Vineyard Manager for Sperling. I wish I could say I was surprised by what I found at Sperling, but Ann’s reputation precedes her and I can happily report that I was not disappointed. Should you be out in Kelowna make sure you stop by this winery and check out what’s in the tasting room.
2014 Pinot Noir Rosé – **** – $19.00 – Strawberry jam and ripe cherry on the nose. The flavours match the nose, but there is some nice depth to this wine with a fantastic mineral note and a slight creamy texture on the mid palate. The creaminess to this wine helps it linger on the palate and it allows the flavours to move from delicate red fruit to grapefruit cocktail. This wine does finish dry and great acidity.
2015 Market White – **** – $17.00 – This is a ‘kitchen sink’ blend white, and frankly, I didn’t write what was in the assemblage because if you’re buying this wine, you probably don’t care. (In fact, I’m only using the word assemblage so you know that I am taking this seriously). That being said this wine is a citrus, with a nice mineral note on the mid palate and white flower notes that poke their way through from nose to finish. This is a versatile wine to pair with food, but it is the ideal patio sipper. I realize that we have fall on the horizon so if you can get a few bottles enjoy with the last of the warm weather.
2012 Old Vines Riesling – ****+ – $32.00 – These vines were planted in 1978. The flavours on the nose are so concentrated they practically climb out of the glass. The aromas are lemon, lime and have a nice minerality to it. This wine is off-dry with nice acidity, but it does finish with a bit of sweetness leaving the palate with peaches and apples that hang around for a bit. The real story about this wine is the intense concentration of all the flavours and aromas. I am looking forward to tasting future vintages of this wine as the vines keep getting older.
2015 Natural Amber Pinot Gris – ****+ – $30.00 – There is much ado about “Natural Wine” these days. With every note and post on this website and every media appearance I do the bottom line to me is that the wine HAS to taste good. While I haven’t tasted as many of these orange wines as some of the somm’s in the city of Toronto, I have tasted enough to know that there are a lot of bad wines in a bottle being peddled in restaurants in this city because they are unique. Now that I’ve got this off my chest I can say with confidence that winemaker Ann Sperling knows how to make these wines taste good. Her orange wine from Southbrook is tasty and has evolved in a way that each bottle is more interesting and tasty than the last. I imagine this wine will bring the same reward to the holder of the corkscrew (or in this case, the cap). Very soft and delicate on the nose and in the mouth. The aromas are a bouquet of field flowers and the palate is filled with pink grapefruit. There is a slight funkiness to this wine, it’s something I can’t quite put my finger on, but it only adds another layer of complexity to this wine.
2013 Brut Rosé – ****+ – $42.00 – I am very much looking forward to future vintages of this wine, but I am putting the cart before the horse. This is a solid offering with bright raspberry and cranberry on the nose. The flavours bring apples and apricots to the table and there is a hint of spice on the finish. Bright, crisp and delicious.
2010 Brut Reserve – ****+ – $49.95 – The nose has toasting bread (not toasted, but toasting) and a slight funkiness to it. It’s like there are mushrooms growing beside the toaster. The flavours are apples and vanilla surrounded by bright citrus notes. The finish is crisp and clean.
2014 Pinot Noir – ****1/2 – $26.00 – This bottle offers the best value in the entire Sperling portfolio. This is simply gorgeous Pinot Noir. The aromas are heavy violet and earthy. Under the intense floral perfume you find perfectly ripe cherry aromas poking their way through. The palate brings the perfume to the palate, but the ripe fruit flavours start to force their way to the front. By the time the wine rolls off the back of your tongue you get a great blast of bright red cherry only to have that bouquet of violets linger.
2012 Chardonnay – ****+ – $26.00 – Aromas of pineapple and vanilla climb out of the glass. This wine is a bit of a walking contradiction, because there is an intensity to the warm fruit flavours. Pineapple, Apple, roasted Peach with hints of baking spice are what you will find on the palate with a nice creamy finish. The finish is long with whispers of smoke and vanilla but everything about this wine snaps into focus like a sharp photograph with perfect acidity.
2015 Late Harvest Riesling – ****1/2 – $24.95 – Bright lime and citrus are what you find on the nose. At first sniff there is no way you would be able to guess that this is a sweet wine. This wine has held onto all the best parts of Riesling with the citrus notes and a nice presence of mineral. There is honey, grapefruit, lemon and lime — but the best part is the fact that this wine is perfectly balanced with acidity. All around this is damned near perfection and a friggin’ steal at twenty five bucks. Expect me to pair this wine with fried chicken in my household.
