The latest batch of 2017’s from Kacaba continue a long string of wines that demonstrate the quality of the strange vintage. The warm dry fall wasn’t just kind to the early ripening varieties like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay it seems across the board these wines deliver the goods. Here is a look at the current exciting lineup of wines from Kacaba.
2017 Meritage – $33.15 – ****+ – Imagine a perfectly ripe raspberry right off the bush – that’s what this smells like, and tastes like. The fruit is juicy, fresh, and vivid on the nose and on the palate. But, this has something that is missing from hot Niagara summers – elegance and restraint. This may not be a bottle that will have the longevity in your cellar, but you don’t need it to. Let’s sit and wait for those hot summer wines to be ready to drink and get ready to see how great Niagara can be on the off vintages. The tannin is silky smooth and this wine just rolls off the back of the tongue. This wine will soar in its youth from 2020-2023 but if you decide to hold it should evolve until 2028.
2017 Cabernet Franc – $33.15 – **** – I love it when Ontario Cabernet Franc embraces it’s more savoury personality. That being said there is much more to the savoury element of Franc than bell pepper – this offers aromas more like roasted herb mingled with raspberry and cranberry. The savoury note that leads the aromas becomes the counter melody to the juicy raspberry, blackberry, and cranberry flavours. The tannin is a bit rustic and this does need a little bit of time to settle down – but it’s not unruly another six month in bottle or an hour in a decanter should serve you well. Drink now or hold until 2027
2017 Cabernet/Syrah – $30.15 – **** – This is soft and round on the nose and on the palate. Given Kacaba’s track record with both Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah I was expecting something a bit more unbridled. What you will get is something elegant and refined – juicy and ripe – with just a whisper of spice. Fruit is dark cherry, plum, and blackberry. The fruit notes have a slight caress from smoke and cocoa giving this some nice complexity. The tannin is already soft and well integrated, so you don’t need to age or decant this for a long time if you plan on enjoying this now. This is a bottle that may have you pining for spring for your first steak or burger off the grill. Another bottle that could cellar until 2027, but frankly I think this will be at its best while young so enjoy by 2023.
2018 Oak Aged Chardonnay – $30.15 – **** – I don’t think anyone would deny that the use of oak is a signature part of the Chardonnay from Kacaba. The barrel fermented versions of these wines require patience and a love of butterscotch – that being said, what you can expect to find in the Oak Aged Chardonnay is some wonderful restraint. In this bottle you’re still getting notes of vanilla and spice but they get along nicely with notes of apple, and peach. Every note is still vibrant and a bit disjointed – but I don’t mean that in a bad way – every sip you get a little bit of each note and a nice mineral finish. I would love to enjoy this young, I would already call this quite elegant. But I’m intrigued to see how this bottle will evolve in a cellar.
