One of the highlights of my summer so far was sitting down with Kevin Panagapka to taste through the wines for my podcast. I vividly remember tasting my first Chardonnay from him – it was at one of the media tastings hosted by the LCBO. But it was stunning – and came in a few bucks more than twenty dollars. But the problem with the 2027 Cellars is that the wines would come and go in vintages – and they would sell out very quickly. Kevin has been on some very fine wine lists in the city – if I were running a restaurant I would proudly pour his wines because of the tremendous quality and value.
So, when I started hearing rumours that 2027 Cellars was working to get their retail license I was more than a bit excited. And this year – when you visit Calamus winery you can now buy these wines without having to wait for them to come through vintages. So here’s what I’ve been drinking… and what you should too.
2016 Edgerock Vineyard Brut Rosé – $45.00 – ****½ – This is stunning. When I opened this bottle I wasn’t expecting something so austere – but man, sipping on this wine felt like an education. The aromas are toasted bread, citrus, and hints of cranberry. This is fantastically complex when it opens up in your mouth. It’s like each sip you take reveals another fruit note, or a nutty note, or a biscuit note. Each sip just leaves you thinking about what’s going to come next. While this is ready to rock right now, it will evolve nicely with a few years in a cellar.
2016 Wismer Vineyard Fox Croft Block Blanc de Blancs – $40.00 – **** – This has always been a wine that I look forward to – and I taste it at every opportunity presented. Affable, and easygoing – this has citrus fruit that moves to orchard fruit. I would love to see more sparkling wine from the Twenty Mile Bench frankly – and I’ve often sung the praises of Featherstone Joy – so it’s fantastic to have another bottle to add to the collection.
2019 Falls Vineyard Pinot Gris – $25.00 – **** – Many claim to make Pinot Gris in Ontario trying to get it to taste Alsatian. (Most fail). But once in a while we get that strike of lightning in a bottle – and there is a Pinot Gris worth talking about. This is one of them. A lovely mineral note takes centre stage from nose to finish – and the texture on the mid palate is what makes this wine exciting. Something to crush on the patio – and something to enjoy without having to worry about pairing with food.
2018 Stonebridge Chardonnay – ****+ – $27.00
2018 Wismer Vineyard – Fox Croft Block – ****+ – $27.00
I need to review these wines side by side – because frankly – they are so reasonably priced there’s no reason to not buy two of them. One is from the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation of Niagara on the Lake – the other is from the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation. What is remarkable about these wines is that there is a strong line that makes them similar – but if you want to see what a difference a few kilometers between growing sites makes this is a great way to do it. The Stonebridge brushes a little closer to tropical fruit with a tinge of pineapple and canned peaches – while Fox Croft leans full force into mineral and golden delicious apple. Stonebridge brings out some baking spice – where Fox Croft brings soft vanilla.
