A Fresh Look at Italian Cuisine and Wine
I recently attended an event hosted by Sip and Savor – featuring pairings European Wines and Deli Meats. On this October day in downtown Toronto I was treated to a selection of wines from Roero, and some very good Italian charcuterie.
It was fascinating to me having a chance to attend this event – because it reinforced something I already learned. I am a recent convert to the joys of Italian cooking – when I fell in love with the kitchen it was over my Grandmother’s Hungarian recipes and moved quickly to Julia Child, and more technique driven French cuisine. I had written off Italian cuisine as just a variations of garlic, basil, and tomato in various ratios … and repeat. It took me far too long to realize I was wrong.
I came to this realization when I read Kitchen Confidential by the great Anthony Bourdain (if this post inspires you to read the book … please make sure you get the annotated version… it’s inspiring to see someone as iconic as Bourdain retrace his steps and admit that he had learned a few things since writing the book). It was as if a massive light bulb exploded in my head when I read Bourdain talking about how Italian cooking is about the quality of the ingredients. This is the joy, beauty, and simplicity of great Italian cuisine – even if all you can afford as discount grocery ingredients – you can still make a decent, delicious, and hearty meal for you and your loved ones … but if you want to elevate it – get better ingredients.
My kitchen now comes fully stocked with Olive Oil’s from around the world. And, as many of you who have been following my writing for a while will know – I tend to go over my tax-free limit with wine – but there is no duty to be charged on Olive Oil. Which brings me back to my lunch in October in Toronto.
Understanding European Quality Labels: PDO, PGI, DOC, DOCG
One of the focuses of the materials from Sip and Savor is identifying labeling as an indicator of origin and quality. If you’re a child of the 90s you can almost recite word for word the iconic quote from Rob Lowe’s character Benjamin in Wayne’s world when he explains that Champagne must come from the region in France to be called Champagne. Well… the same applies to other agricultural products. You are probably familiar with the stringent rules for wine in Italy with DOC and DOCG indicators being signs of region and quality. For charcuterie you need to be familiar with PDO and PGI.
PDO and PGI Explained
PDO means that everything in the production of the product takes place in the region – in this case it was Prosciutto di San Daniele
PGI means that at least one step of the production takes place in a region – in this case it was Mortadella Bologna IGP
Roero: A Piedmont Region of Arneis and Nebbiolo
Roero is in the heart of Piedmont – a region well known for Barolo or Barbaresco – … this is where I need to include my standard mea culpa that Italy is a blind spot in my wine knowledge … But I love learning about it and drinking it… and I love the reminder that Italy is full of great affordable wines. The wines we tasted were made with Arneis – a white indigenous grape that had been cultivated since the 15th century and was recently rediscovered in the 1970s – and Nebbiolo – as previously stated synonymous with Barolo and Barbaresco.
It should be no surprise the the entire selection of wines served this day had great balance with nice acidity that paired well with the selection of charcuterie served.
Tasting Roero Arneis: Freshness and Bright Acidity
The thread that tied the Arneis together was a freshness – and maybe it was something about the time of year – but a perfect bite of pear just before it gets too ripe, and is still a little bit crisp. Citrus worked it’s way in these bottles as well as field flowers – along with great acidity on the finish. None of the wines tasted are available at the LCBO – but all four would be welcome additions to my table at anytime. And while I am still guilty of being a seasonal drinker (more reds in the winter) it’s a nice reminder of how well made wines can evoque feelings of a season.
Arneis Wines Tasted
Poderi Moretti Roero Arneis DOCG 2024 (13.0% abv)
Chiesa Roero Arneis DOCG 2024 (13.0% abv)
Cascina Chicco Roero Arneis DOCG Anterisio 2023 (13.5% abv)
Antica Cascina dei Conti di Roero Roero Arneis Reserva SRU 2023 (13.0%)
Pairing Arneis With Italian Charcuterie
The meaty options shared with these wines were Bresaola della Valtellina IGP and Lardo de Colonnata. Bresaola is a staple in my household as I frequently enjoy serving it with Raclette – and when I serve Raclette I typically open bright, crisp white wines to keep the palate refreshed. While Bresaola is beef it is quite salty – but with the Arneis it amplified the nice beefiness of the meat. With regard to the Lardo – I arrived at the venue a little early and the gentlemen slicing the meats informed me that the Lardo is white gold. And – in this case it made a nice counterbalance to the lean bresaola. While the Lardo de Colonnata is seasoned the texture and flavour of this charcuterie is the closest thing to butter I have tasted without actually mawing down on a stick of butter. The crisp acidity of the Arneis played a nice counterpoint to keep your mouth from feeling greasy while eating the lardo.
Tasting Roero Rosso: Approachable Nebbiolo
The Roero Rosso was served second – and these wines are also not available at the LCBO – in fact, it appears that there are no Roero Rosso’s currently listed. Which is a shame – because Nebbiolo has a reputation of being fussy, and tannic, and hard to drink while young. These wines were anything but that. The nebbiolo from Roero is juicy and approachable. Flavour profiles is floral with notes of violet, anise, starberry, and vanilla.
Roero Rosso Wines Tasted
Cordero Gabriele Roero 2022 (14.5%)
Carlo Casetta Roero DOCG Riserva FIL 2022 (14.0% abv)
Careglio Roero Riserva Valmezzana 2020 (15.0% abv)
Malvira Roero DOCG Riserva Renesio 2019 (14.0%)
Pairing Nebbiolo With Salumi
The meaty options shared with the red wines were Salami Finocchiona, Mortadella Bologna IGP, and Prosciutto di San Daniele. I would say between the Salami and the Prosciutto it’s a toss up to what I spend more money on when I set foot in a high end Italian grocer. Finocchiona is wonderful with the strong fennel note and mates perfectly with the Rosso that has hints of anise – it’s just pure harmony. Compared with the Lardo and Bresaola these three meat options have a stronger flavour profile and as such make a nice match to the Nebbiolo. Even though the red wines are quite intense they still have a foundation of acidity that allows them to form harmony with the food pairings.
A Taste of Abruzzo: Porchetta Memories
While the focus of the event was the food pairings, as well as highlighting the quality of the European made products lunch also included a beautiful porchetta – which immediately brought me back to my visit to Abruzzo where one of the highlights was a plate piled high with roasted pork.
Conclusion: The Joy of Intention, Tradition, and Authenticity
In the end, what stayed with me long after leaving the Sip and Savor event wasn’t just the lineup of Arneis and Nebbiolo, or the parade of expertly crafted Italian charcuterie – it was the reminder that great food and wine are, at their core, about intention. The quality of the ingredients, the respect for tradition, and the care put into each step of production all shine through when you slow down long enough to taste them. And it’s not everyday you get to mindfully sip a lineup of exquisite wines next to charcuterie on their own. As someone still filling in the gaps of my Italian wine education, this afternoon in Toronto reaffirmed just how much joy there is in discovery, especially when it’s rooted in authenticity. And whether it’s a slice of Prosciutto di San Daniele, a glass of Roero Arneis, or an unforgettable bite of porchetta, the pleasure is amplified when you know exactly where it comes from – and why that matters.
(This is a sponsored with Sip and Savor)
