On my second visit to Beaujolais I made sure to stop at Chateau Thivin. I know it probably surprises people – but I chose to visit them because of their labels. I had a list of great suggestions from a few people on who to visit in Beaujolais, but there was something about the very classic stylings on their bottles that called to me. The fact that their wines are acclaimed just sealed the deal.
Visiting France in the first week of January was a bit of a challenge – many of the restaurants in Beaujolais were closed for holidays. So, looking for a place to eat was often checking google maps for a few restaurants in proximity of each other and hoping one of them would be open. We had stopped in Cercié at a pub called Le Savannah. It was interesting that on this trip where I had an opportunity to eat at a couple of Michelin starred restaurants it was our “pub” meals that were the most memorable.
My French functions pretty well – but when you are in bistro – in a small town – in a rural region – and there is no printed menu – you’re grateful for google translate. The lunch at Le Savannah was a little more rustic than our Michelin star restaurants but the feeling was very authentic. I had a braised deer dish and my wife had Beaujolais sausages which we enjoyed in the company of the friendly dog of the owner of the bar who stopped by each table to make sure the patrons were enjoying their meal.
For people who know me, they know that I love road trips. It’s something about being able to see the view from the road gives you time to really appreciate how the landscape can change in any given region. But it’s not often I’ve had the urge to literally pull the car over to take in the view. When I was driving up the Cote de Brouilly, a dormant volcano the moment you see the sloping vineyards and the clear skies were breathtaking.
Halfway to the top you find Chateau Thivin. If I haven’t sold you on the scenery and food the wines will surely seal the deal. Sonja Geoffray greeted us at the winery and took us through the stunning portfolio.
2017 Beaujolais Blanc – **** – I could write a book on how Beaujolais Blanc is a hidden treasure of the region – this is no exception. Wines like these will always be eclipsed by the much more complex wines of Bourgogne, but it’s hard to beat the value – and if you’re impatient like me you don’t need to hold onto these wines for them to unleash their true potential. This has a nice round texture and feel – apple and citrus with a hint of spice, and perfectly balanced acidity are what you will find in the bottle.
2017 Gamay Noir (Beaujolais Villages) – **** – Definitely a high quality bojo villages – the colour is dark and the aromas are rich and plush with red fruit. The concentration of aromas and flavours are intense – Black cherry, blackberry, and nice acid.
2017 Brouilly – ****+ – After tasting the Villages wine from Thivin it’s hard to imagine something with more concentration – yet, here we are. It’s as if every possible great flavour from Brouilly has been extracted and crammed into this bottle. Black cherry, strawberry, and slight spice on the finish. The ageing potential for this wine is 10-15 years in a proper cellar.
2017 Cote de Brouilly – ****½ – This is liquid velvet. The structure and concentration of this wine creates a challenge – in a proper cellar this has ageing potential of 10-15 years. But, if you decide to open this right now, you won’t be disappointed. Fruit is really front and centre and this hits the right notes of juicy, perfectly ripe cherry and blackberry but it’s not jammy or confected. Peak elegance from Beaujolais that still screams Gamay out of the glass.
2017 Clos Bertrand (Cote de Brouilly) – ***** – This comes from a special parcel of the Cote de Brouilly vineyard. This is brimming with ripe black cherry, blackberry, and slight cassis (which I realize is not something you expect to find in Gamay). This is super elegant with soft tannin – but the structure to this wine means you shouldn’t touch it for a couple of years to give it time to mature, and relax. Ageing potential is 15-20 years in a proper cellar – and I am certain this one will be worth holding onto.
