I think many of us are at the point of dealing with the Covid-19 crisis by trying to find silver linings. One of my silver linings has been spending the past few weeks connecting with Thomas Bachelder, and Michael Pinkus to taste through the wines included in his newest release called Violette. The past couple times I have spoken with Thomas he has said that he wants to school Michael and I on Burgundy – that didn’t happen this time. So it’s something to look forward to when the pandemic is finished.
What we did do was each week focus on a different grape that Thomas has worked with. Our first session had Chardonnay as our focus. Before getting to the tasting notes – I have to say that when you’re dealing with wines from the Bachelder label what you can expect is the unexpected. While working with fruit from different sites you expect the wines to be different – but given that all are made by the same person it’s still a shock to see how different the wines are.
I am unashamed and unapologetic in my love of Chardonnay – especially from Ontario – especially from Thomas. I frequently recommend his “Niagara” Chardonnay available in Vintages (302083) for people looking for a benchmark on the grape (to be fair I’m also recommending 2027 Cellars, Featherstone, and Flat Rock – it’s a good club). We tasted through the wines from the stellar 2017 vintage. I still vividly remember the September that year where after a fairly mild summer we got a long glorious fall. So far most of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay I’ve tasted from this vintage has been outstanding – so where do the Bachelder wines line up? When you listen to the May 11th episode of Two Guys Talking wine you’ll understand how it came to be that I connected the personality of these wines with musicians.
2017 Willms Vineyard – 1983 Plantation – old vines – VQA Four Mile Creek – $44.95 – ****½ – This is pyrotechnics for the nose and mouth – but it’s not a kid with a sparkler – this is a perfectly timed and orchestrated performance. Once the first sip hits your tongue this instantly opens up with rich and far reaching flavours of peach, pear, tangerine, and vanilla. The second sip brings deeply buried baking spice to the party like a perfectly put together apple pie. The best part comes when the acidity announces its presence and the mineral note brings the manners to the party. Without a doubt this wine exudes power and elegance – this is definitely Idina Menzel.
2017 Saunders-Haut Vineyard – VQA Beamsville Bench – $44.95 – **** – There is fruit here – but the aromas or mineral and hazelnut jump out of the glass with some aggression. In spite of the crunchy assault this then opens up with fantastic fruit for the second verse peach, and apple mating perfectly with the loud opening. A Chardonnay I wouldn’t want served too cold, and I would wait a couple years before revisiting Per our podcast this is Zach de la Rocha the frontman of Rage Against the Machine.
2017 Wismer-Wingfield Ouest Vineyard – $47.95 – **** – If wine were a little melancholic it would be what Wismer-Wingfeld Ouest Vineyard. The fruit is front and centre – but it’s a little bruised and damaged. That doesn’t make this any less delicious. While the fruit unravels on the palate with very nice texture hints of baking spice start to tell the story. Mineral starts to politely ask for attention when you get to the end of this story and all the fruit and spice have sorted out where they belong. I have the voice of the inimitable Stevie Nicks in my head while I ponder this wine.
